Meat + Poultry - May 2007 - 37

SALUMI

Paul Bertolli (left) owner of Fra'Mani, Berkeley, Calif., and Armandino Batali owner of Salumi, Seattle, Wash.

sausagemaker of Fra'Mani, a Berkeley,
Calif., salumi specialist. "They've created a new demand for high-quality,
authentic foods. We've seen it with everything from olives to lettuce to fresh
meat. It's natural that the same demand
would apply to authentic, traditional
Italian salumi." Bertolli should know:
before he donned the butcher's smock
he earned a reputation as one of America's leading chefs at Chez Panisse and
Oliveto, two of the San Francisco Bay
Area's finest restaurants. But before he
was being profiled in Gourmet and Bon
Appetit, he was an apprentice in the
meat department of a local Bay Area
supermarket and spent time working
on a farm in Italy. Moreover, he's got a
meat-cutter's DNA: one of his grandfathers was a butcher in Chicago.
Armandino Batali agrees with Bertolli about the influence of restaurants.
"I think there are a whole new bunch
42

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MEAT&POULTRY

I

May 2007

I

of young chefs out there who want to
try new things," he says, "and they're
going back to traditional foods as a
starting point." Though he's never run
a restaurant, he too knows the connections well: Armandino's son is renowned
chef Mario Batali, who has brought his
signature cuisine to high-end establishments in New York, Los Angeles and
Las Vegas and who is the star of writer
Bill Buford's book "Heat: An Amateur's
Adventures as Kitchen Slave, Line Cook,
Pasta-Maker, and Apprentice to a DanteQuoting Butcher in Tuscany."

"A tremendous concept"
"Salumi" also is the name of a tiny meat
factory and storefront restaurant in Seattle, Wash., that Armandino founded
with his wife Marilyn in 1999. Though
he certainly carries the surname of a
"salumist," he is an engineer by training, and enjoyed a 31-year career at

www.MEATPOULTRY.com

Boeing. After retiring from the aircraft
builder following a tenure in Europe
that changed the life course of more
than one family member, Armandino
and his wife Marilyn opened their meat
processing experiment in the wake of
a visit to New York with Mario, and after Armandino went to cooking school
and learned some sausage-making
skills at Alps, Inc., in Queens. Salumi's
location in Seattle's Pioneer Square is
significant: it's catty-corner, Armandino says, from the historic location of
the Italian delicatessen his grandfather
opened in 1903.
Both Armandino Batali and Paul Bertolli think the desire for the authentic
transcends restaurants - and, to some
degree, was brought on by the meat
industry itself. "The meat industry in
America changed in the 1970s and
'80s. USDA began insisting on a standard level of food quality and identity,



http://www.MEATPOULTRY.com

Meat + Poultry - May 2007

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Meat + Poultry - May 2007

Contents
Meat + Poultry - May 2007 - 1
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Meat + Poultry - May 2007 - Contents
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