MEAT+POULTRY - October 2015 - 52

R E C A L L I N G K AT R I N A : PA R T 2

Post-Katrina
MEAT MARKETS MAKE THEIR MARK
Ten years after Hurricane Katrina, the New Orleans food industry is as vibrant as
ever. In fact, there are hundreds more restaurants in New Orleans in 2015 than
there were before the hurricane decimated the city.
There are new meat markets, too, including Emmett's Fine Meats & Seafood and
Cleaver & Co. Both are operated by New Orleans natives who have a passion
for food and the city they live in. Emmett's, co-operated by butcher Emmett
Dufresne, offers nearly 70 varieties of gourmet sausage, fresh meat, stuffed
chickens, turduckens and other items. Cleaver & Co., co-operated by Nathaniel
Wallace, specializes in fresh meat including Wagyu beef, grass-fed beef, pork,
rabbit, ducks, chicken and gourmet sausage.
"I don't think a place like this could have existed before Hurricane Katrina,"
Wallace says. "Some grocery stores had nice meat departments, but they didn't
offer a locally sourced grass-fed cow or locally raised Wagyu beef."
Wallace describes Cleaver & Co. as "a butcher-prepared meals shop." His uncle,
Daniel Sinclair, is his business partner. They also raise Wagyu cattle on a pasture
about 50 miles from the city. "My uncle and I saw an opportunity," says Wallace,
who plans to introduce sausage and hot dogs made with Wagyu beef.
Dufresne says business has been increasing every year since Emmett's opened
five years ago. Dufresne wants Emmett's to be known as the go-to place for
fresh sausage. Varieties include barbecue shrimp, crawfish etouffee boudin,
chicken creole tomato and basil, muffaletta, pizza and taco.
Emmett's has the feel of an old-time butcher shop with its checkered floor.
Customers also receive old-time butcher service. "A lot of big stores don't do
customer service too much," Dufresne says. "That's what this town likes...to
interact with a butcher and to find out how to cook something."

52

MEAT+ POULTRY | 10.15 | www.meatpoultry.com

Nathaniel Wallace
believes Cleaver &
Co. has found a niche
with its products.

"What do you want to do?"
The brothers' answer was decisive: Stay in
business, they told their dad.
Chisesi Brothers, well known for its onemuscle hand-crafted hams and artery-injected
bone-in hams, is an established and popular
brand in Greater New Orleans. The company
was 97 years old at the time of the hurricane,
and family members were eager to continue its
heritage after the storm.
"If you want to build the city back up, you
need infrastructure and jobs," Nicholas says.
"We wanted to be part of that."
It took seven employees 11 days to remove
the spoiled product from Chisesi Brothers'
plant. Much of the equipment in the building
had to be replaced, as did the processing floor
and part of the building's roof. While Chisesi
Brothers was back in business about three
months after the storm, there was a harsh
realization among the family members that
a lot of business wouldn't come back for the
company. New Orleans is populated with
hundreds of pint-sized mom and pop corner
grocery stores that sell everything from meat
to milk. Many of them were demolished in the
storm and customers of Chisesi Brothers.
"They were wiped out in one day," Cody
Chisesi says.
Because many of those grocery stores did
not reopen and because so many thousands
of people evacuated New Orleans and did not
return, the Chisesi family decided to pursue
federal inspection so it could sell its products
across state lines and gain new customers.
"It wasn't a choice as much as it was a
matter of survival," Nicholas says.
There was a problem, however. The flow
and design of the company's repaired plant was
not conducive to federal inspection. Chisesi
Brothers would have to find another location.
In 2006, the company received a loan to
purchase a 119,000-sq.-ft. cold-storage freezer
facility at a business park in nearby Jefferson
Parish. The company spent about $4 million to
renovate the building, including a $1 million
investment on new smokehouses. Chisesi
Brothers sold its old facility to a bakery and
opened the new building for business in 2007.
At Crescent City Meat Co., a federally
inspected processor of sausage, pickled meats
and other items, Jerry Hanford was worried
that his 29-year-old business would not



MEAT+POULTRY - October 2015

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of MEAT+POULTRY - October 2015

MEAT+POULTRY - October 2015
TABLE OF CONTENTS
COMMENTARY - Barbecue royalty
BUSINESS NOTES - JENNIE-O POISED FOR BEEF BATTLE
CARGILL TO SELL TEXAS PLANT
INDIANA PACKERS TO EXPAND PORK PLANT
TYSON FRESH MEATS TO ADD JOBS IN COUNCIL BLUFFS
TYSON DEFENDS ANIMAL WELFARE PRACTICES
DUBRETON TO BOOST CRATE-FREE PRODUCTION
NATHAN’S FAMOUS LAUNCHES TENDER OFFER
WASHINGTON - Analyzing antibiotics
COVER STORY - BEYOND BACON
PLANT TOUR - Bacon beginnings
BACON PROCESSING - Butcher appeal
PACKAGING SOLUTIONS - On 'board'
Bacon meets HPP
RECALLING KATRINA - PART 2: TIME HEALS
POST-KATRINA - Meat markets make their mark
AT INTRALOX - Employees stepped up in the face of disaster
ANNIVERSARY SPECIAL - Decade of Drama
FOOD SAFETY - Controlling contaminants
INGREDIENT ISSUES - Lasting longer, safely
SANITATION TIPS - Personal protective equipment
SMALL BUSINESS MATTERS - Growth pains in the Plains
MEAT-MINDED - Bo's penchant for protein
CONFERENCE PREVIEW - Positive outlook
LABOR - Understanding equal employment
SHOWCASE
NAMES IN THE NEWS
CLASSIFIEDS
ADVERTISERS
THE INSIDER
MEAT+POULTRY - October 2015 - MEAT+POULTRY - October 2015
MEAT+POULTRY - October 2015 - 2
MEAT+POULTRY - October 2015 - 3
MEAT+POULTRY - October 2015 - TABLE OF CONTENTS
MEAT+POULTRY - October 2015 - 5
MEAT+POULTRY - October 2015 - 6
MEAT+POULTRY - October 2015 - 7
MEAT+POULTRY - October 2015 - COMMENTARY - Barbecue royalty
MEAT+POULTRY - October 2015 - 9
MEAT+POULTRY - October 2015 - INDIANA PACKERS TO EXPAND PORK PLANT
MEAT+POULTRY - October 2015 - TYSON DEFENDS ANIMAL WELFARE PRACTICES
MEAT+POULTRY - October 2015 - NATHAN’S FAMOUS LAUNCHES TENDER OFFER
MEAT+POULTRY - October 2015 - 13
MEAT+POULTRY - October 2015 - WASHINGTON - Analyzing antibiotics
MEAT+POULTRY - October 2015 - 15
MEAT+POULTRY - October 2015 - COVER STORY - BEYOND BACON
MEAT+POULTRY - October 2015 - 17
MEAT+POULTRY - October 2015 - 18
MEAT+POULTRY - October 2015 - 19
MEAT+POULTRY - October 2015 - 20
MEAT+POULTRY - October 2015 - 21
MEAT+POULTRY - October 2015 - 22
MEAT+POULTRY - October 2015 - 23
MEAT+POULTRY - October 2015 - 24
MEAT+POULTRY - October 2015 - 25
MEAT+POULTRY - October 2015 - PLANT TOUR - Bacon beginnings
MEAT+POULTRY - October 2015 - 27
MEAT+POULTRY - October 2015 - 28
MEAT+POULTRY - October 2015 - 29
MEAT+POULTRY - October 2015 - 30
MEAT+POULTRY - October 2015 - 31
MEAT+POULTRY - October 2015 - 32
MEAT+POULTRY - October 2015 - 33
MEAT+POULTRY - October 2015 - 34
MEAT+POULTRY - October 2015 - 35
MEAT+POULTRY - October 2015 - BACON PROCESSING - Butcher appeal
MEAT+POULTRY - October 2015 - 37
MEAT+POULTRY - October 2015 - 38
MEAT+POULTRY - October 2015 - 39
MEAT+POULTRY - October 2015 - PACKAGING SOLUTIONS - On 'board'
MEAT+POULTRY - October 2015 - 41
MEAT+POULTRY - October 2015 - 42
MEAT+POULTRY - October 2015 - 43
MEAT+POULTRY - October 2015 - 44
MEAT+POULTRY - October 2015 - 45
MEAT+POULTRY - October 2015 - 46
MEAT+POULTRY - October 2015 - Bacon meets HPP
MEAT+POULTRY - October 2015 - 48
MEAT+POULTRY - October 2015 - 49
MEAT+POULTRY - October 2015 - RECALLING KATRINA - PART 2: TIME HEALS
MEAT+POULTRY - October 2015 - 51
MEAT+POULTRY - October 2015 - POST-KATRINA - Meat markets make their mark
MEAT+POULTRY - October 2015 - 53
MEAT+POULTRY - October 2015 - 54
MEAT+POULTRY - October 2015 - 55
MEAT+POULTRY - October 2015 - AT INTRALOX - Employees stepped up in the face of disaster
MEAT+POULTRY - October 2015 - 57
MEAT+POULTRY - October 2015 - 58
MEAT+POULTRY - October 2015 - 59
MEAT+POULTRY - October 2015 - 60
MEAT+POULTRY - October 2015 - 61
MEAT+POULTRY - October 2015 - ANNIVERSARY SPECIAL - Decade of Drama
MEAT+POULTRY - October 2015 - 63
MEAT+POULTRY - October 2015 - 64
MEAT+POULTRY - October 2015 - 65
MEAT+POULTRY - October 2015 - 66
MEAT+POULTRY - October 2015 - 67
MEAT+POULTRY - October 2015 - 68
MEAT+POULTRY - October 2015 - 69
MEAT+POULTRY - October 2015 - 70
MEAT+POULTRY - October 2015 - 71
MEAT+POULTRY - October 2015 - FOOD SAFETY - Controlling contaminants
MEAT+POULTRY - October 2015 - 73
MEAT+POULTRY - October 2015 - 74
MEAT+POULTRY - October 2015 - 75
MEAT+POULTRY - October 2015 - 76
MEAT+POULTRY - October 2015 - 77
MEAT+POULTRY - October 2015 - 78
MEAT+POULTRY - October 2015 - 79
MEAT+POULTRY - October 2015 - INGREDIENT ISSUES - Lasting longer, safely
MEAT+POULTRY - October 2015 - 81
MEAT+POULTRY - October 2015 - 82
MEAT+POULTRY - October 2015 - 83
MEAT+POULTRY - October 2015 - 84
MEAT+POULTRY - October 2015 - 85
MEAT+POULTRY - October 2015 - 86
MEAT+POULTRY - October 2015 - 87
MEAT+POULTRY - October 2015 - 88
MEAT+POULTRY - October 2015 - SANITATION TIPS - Personal protective equipment
MEAT+POULTRY - October 2015 - 90
MEAT+POULTRY - October 2015 - 91
MEAT+POULTRY - October 2015 - SMALL BUSINESS MATTERS - Growth pains in the Plains
MEAT+POULTRY - October 2015 - 93
MEAT+POULTRY - October 2015 - 94
MEAT+POULTRY - October 2015 - 95
MEAT+POULTRY - October 2015 - MEAT-MINDED - Bo's penchant for protein
MEAT+POULTRY - October 2015 - 97
MEAT+POULTRY - October 2015 - 98
MEAT+POULTRY - October 2015 - 99
MEAT+POULTRY - October 2015 - CONFERENCE PREVIEW - Positive outlook
MEAT+POULTRY - October 2015 - 101
MEAT+POULTRY - October 2015 - LABOR - Understanding equal employment
MEAT+POULTRY - October 2015 - 103
MEAT+POULTRY - October 2015 - SHOWCASE
MEAT+POULTRY - October 2015 - 105
MEAT+POULTRY - October 2015 - NAMES IN THE NEWS
MEAT+POULTRY - October 2015 - 107
MEAT+POULTRY - October 2015 - CLASSIFIEDS
MEAT+POULTRY - October 2015 - 109
MEAT+POULTRY - October 2015 - 110
MEAT+POULTRY - October 2015 - 111
MEAT+POULTRY - October 2015 - 112
MEAT+POULTRY - October 2015 - ADVERTISERS
MEAT+POULTRY - October 2015 - THE INSIDER
MEAT+POULTRY - October 2015 - 115
MEAT+POULTRY - October 2015 - 116
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