Culinology - December 2017 - 22

MENU trends

The Three Pleasures
principle utilizes
fruit, nuts and dark
chocolate.
Photo by: il Molo

avocados as the fat instead of butter in a
mousse or ganache, then fold in melted dark
chocolate (actually, cocoa powder would be
better for the mousse, 70% dark chocolate
for ganache)."
Come Christmas, Ms. Flammino plans
to menu a traditional Buche de Noel
(yule log) at ABC Kitchen, ABC Cocina
and abcV. "It's not a 'healthy' dessert,
but you could use 70% chocolate and
more maple syrup versus white sugar for
the cake roll filling; you could also add less
processed almond flour for more protein."
She has been steadily (and stealthily) reducing the sugar content of recipes in all
three ABC restaurants and finds the effort
has changed her own perception of "sweet."
"Now, I take comments such as, 'Oh, that's
not overly sweet,' as a compliment, especially
when guests are referring to ganache."

Less is more
As executive chef at 90-seat Il Molo in

22 |

Culinology | DECEMBER 2017

Boston's North End, East Boston native and
chef Pino Maffeo is enthusiastic about today's
widespread emphasis on using local and
seasonal produce. He aims "to do the least
to ingredients, so there's nothing to hide behind." In an ongoing effort to "minimalize the
use of sugar," Mr. Maffeo consciously uses
other ingredients differently.
"For example, I'll use ginger juice versus
dry ginger in our all- American apple pie. It's a
step forward in flavor while also being a plus
in the health department," he said.
While aiming to simplify the ingredient list,
he knows he must not simplify the taste.
Apple pie at Il Molo is an example of his "less
is more" philosophy. He'll bake the crust a
little more than usual, allowing the toasted
flavor to make up for using less spice and
less butter.
"People always ask me, 'What's the most
important ingredient [in any particular dish]?' I
say it's the one I leave out. I really believe less
is more." *


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Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Culinology - December 2017

Culinology - December 2017
TABLE of contents
PRESIDENT’S letter - Change is the constant
Emerging Trends - Tapping into MOCKTAIL MANIA
HEMP heating up
INGREDIENT trends - The complexity of formulating with yogurt
MENU trends - Healthy indulgences
MEMBER profile - The spice girl
A regional voice in Culinology
EXPERT voices - INNOVATION pressures near boiling point
INDUSTRY NEWS
PETITS fours - THE NEW PLEASURE PARADIGM
NEWS bites
AD index
Culinology - December 2017 - Culinology - December 2017
Culinology - December 2017 - Culinology - December 2017
Culinology - December 2017 - 2
Culinology - December 2017 - TABLE of contents
Culinology - December 2017 - PRESIDENT’S letter - Change is the constant
Culinology - December 2017 - 5
Culinology - December 2017 - Emerging Trends - Tapping into MOCKTAIL MANIA
Culinology - December 2017 - 7
Culinology - December 2017 - HEMP heating up
Culinology - December 2017 - 9
Culinology - December 2017 - INGREDIENT trends - The complexity of formulating with yogurt
Culinology - December 2017 - 11
Culinology - December 2017 - 12
Culinology - December 2017 - 13
Culinology - December 2017 - 14
Culinology - December 2017 - 15
Culinology - December 2017 - 16
Culinology - December 2017 - MENU trends - Healthy indulgences
Culinology - December 2017 - 18
Culinology - December 2017 - 19
Culinology - December 2017 - 20
Culinology - December 2017 - 21
Culinology - December 2017 - 22
Culinology - December 2017 - 23
Culinology - December 2017 - MEMBER profile - The spice girl
Culinology - December 2017 - 25
Culinology - December 2017 - 26
Culinology - December 2017 - A regional voice in Culinology
Culinology - December 2017 - 28
Culinology - December 2017 - 29
Culinology - December 2017 - 30
Culinology - December 2017 - EXPERT voices - INNOVATION pressures near boiling point
Culinology - December 2017 - 32
Culinology - December 2017 - 33
Culinology - December 2017 - 34
Culinology - December 2017 - 35
Culinology - December 2017 - 36
Culinology - December 2017 - 37
Culinology - December 2017 - INDUSTRY NEWS
Culinology - December 2017 - 39
Culinology - December 2017 - 40
Culinology - December 2017 - 41
Culinology - December 2017 - 42
Culinology - December 2017 - 43
Culinology - December 2017 - 44
Culinology - December 2017 - 45
Culinology - December 2017 - PETITS fours - THE NEW PLEASURE PARADIGM
Culinology - December 2017 - 47
Culinology - December 2017 - 48
Culinology - December 2017 - NEWS bites
Culinology - December 2017 - AD index
Culinology - December 2017 - 51
Culinology - December 2017 - 52
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