Culinology - June 2018 - 26

INGREDIENT trends

Branching out with olives
by Donna Berry

Chorizo-stuffed olives
©Olives from Spain

26 |

Culinology | JUNE 2018

Olives are the fruit of one of the oldest cultivated trees, growing in regions
surrounding the Mediterranean basin where long sunny days and temperate winters
combined with rich, fertile soil are idyllic for growing.
Fermentation makes the pulp of olives edible. Fermentation takes place via a brine,
which is usually prepared with a dressing of aromatic herbs so that the meat acquires
an appetizing and characteristic flavor.
Chefs recognize olives for their diversity and versatility, as they
complement savory and sweet foods. They infuse dishes with a
unique depth of flavor, with the salty brine bringing out subtle
aromatics that might otherwise go undetected.
"Whereas a large portion of olives are used solely
for the purpose of oil extraction, a select few are
deemed suitable enough to be processed and
eaten as table olives," said Paula Sánchez,
marketing and promotion for Olives from Spain,
Sevilla, Spain. "Making the grade depends
on a variety of factors, such as the fruit's fat
content, the size of the pit in comparison to
the flesh, how easily the pit can be removed,
as well as the skin's overall characteristics.
"Traditionally the microbiota responsible for
the fermentation was that which was naturally
present on the fruit or in the environment,"
said Ms. Sánchez. "The process is still
spontaneous in many cases. However, the
use of specific starter cultures with properties
that may contribute to product improvement is
strongly encouraged nowadays."
The color of an olive is an indication of its
ripeness, and ripeness influences flavor. Green olives
are harvested early in the season and have a firm texture
with a nutty, almost smoky flavor, whereas semi-ripe olives,
with a pinkish, wine-colored hue, are collected before complete
maturation. Ripe olives are fully matured and come in a range of reddish
black colors that vary by growing region. They have a robust, profound flavor and tend
to be softer, richer and meatier.
"The flavor of olives varies due to the production of volatile and non-volatile
compounds by the microbiota," said Ms. Sánchez. "The olive variety also impacts
flavor."
In addition to being used diced, sliced or whole as a topping on everything from
breads to salads, olives are often used as a garnish with meat, poultry and fish. Puréed
or finely chopped, olives can be blended with capers, olive oil and other flavorful
ingredients to make a tapenade spread. And, there's the muffaletta sandwich, a New
Orleans original made with charcuterie and a spicy olive salad.
Olives can also be pureed into a cream and used in recipes instead of mayonnaise,
sour cream or plain yogurt. Think deviled eggs, enchilada sauce and tzatziki.
Innovative uses for this ancient, fermented food are limitless, including drying olives in
the oven at low temperature and chopping them into crouton-like pieces for salads
or pastas. *

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Culinology - June 2018