Culinology - December 2019 - 20

FLAVOR trends

caramelize sugars. If protein is present, the
Maillard reaction will cause the reduction to
brown.
"All of this contributes to flavor development," Mr. McDonald said. "Adding ingredients high in monosodium glutamate, such as
mushrooms and tomatoes, may help make
the reduction even more flavorful."
Chef Christopher Koetke, chief executive
officer, Complete Culinary LLC, Oak Park, Ill.,
consultant to Ajinomoto Health & Nutrition,
Chicago, said for industrial applications, using a small amount of thickener, e.g., starch,
gum, etc., not only helps to keep the flavors
from becoming too intense, but also helps
manage cost.
"The judicious use of a thickener balances
the flavor while still getting to the right viscosity," he said. "Adding umami and kokumi
ingredients, such as monosodium glutamate
or specialized yeast extracts, bolsters the
savory notes and ties the flavors together in a
cohesive way."
Using an industrial reduction provides
greater consistency in recipes, said Juliet
Greene, corporate chef at Mizkan America.
"The industrial reduction gives complete control of the potency and takes
out human error in large production," she
said. "Reductions add a punch of flavor so
they really enhance a dish and can add to
beautiful plate presentations and design."
A small amount of
thickener can help
flavors in a sauce
from becoming too
intense.
Photo credit: Chez Moi

20 |

Flavorful applications
Balsamic vinegar reduction is one of the
most popular because it may be used in both
sweet and savory applications. Chefs may
use an industrial reduction and add flavorful
ingredients to it, followed by a further reduc-

Culinology | DECEMBER 2019

tion. Or they may prepare it from scratch.
"For a quick dessert, I love drizzling balsamic reduction over strawberries and mascarpone cheese served on grilled brioche,"
Ms. Greene said. "It pairs equally well over
fresh tomatoes and mozzarella. For proteins,
I like it over perfectly charred steak with crisp
Brussels sprouts because it enhances and
balance the char and slight bitterness.
Chef Gianni Delisi allows the rich flavor of
his pumpkin ravioli to shine with a drizzle of
house-made balsamic reduction made with
imported balsamic vinegar, burnt butter and
toasted pumpkin seeds, along with some
grated Pecorino and fresh herbs. The reduction balances flavor and adds color without
overwhelming the seasonal dish served at the
restaurant Trattoria Gianni, Chicago.
"The secret is to use a good balsamic vinegar that is aged at least 20 years," Mr. Delisi,
who is owner of the restaurant, said. "The
balsamic vinegar is not made with added
sugars or caramel, and it's reduced until it
thickens."
Scott Zuckerman, chief executive officer
of Chicago-based Meez Meals, a meal kit
delivery concept that provides prepped and
ready-to-cook ingredients for gourmet meals,
agrees that balsamic vinegar reduced with a
few additional ingredients makes the perfect
drizzle or glaze. He includes brown sugar
and lemon juice in the balsamic glaze that
the home cook applies to pan-cooked grape
tomatoes. That same glaze is used to adhere
a cauliflower-nut crust to pan-cooked steaks.
The meal kit also includes grape tomatoes
that get cooked with the balsamic and garnish the encrusted steak.
At the heart of Meez Meals rests the idea
that preparing a delicious home-cooked meal
without the hassle of buying and chopping
ingredients - and preparing fresh reductions
- returns cooking to a place of gratifying
satisfaction.
Another Meez offering is maple apple
glazed salmon. Mr. Zuckerman reduces apple
cider and apple cider vinegar with maple
syrup, brown sugar, cinnamon and a touch of
cayenne.
"The glaze gives the fish a rich, caramelized flavor," Mr. Zuckerman said. "Paired with
pecans and roasted Brussels sprouts, you've
got a restaurant-worthy dinner that's on the
table in just 25 minutes."

Culinology - December 2019

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Culinology - December 2019