Supermarket Perimeter - August 2020 - 21

THE BRITISH AND FRENCH INFLUENCES on the pastry world remain
profound.
For instance, the most famous British pastry - if you consider the
enormous popularity of The Great British Baking Show - is the Bakewell
Tart, a short-crust pastry that enjoys a devout following at supermarket
chains like Seattle's Metropolitan Market.
Laminated dough pastries like the French kouign amann, on the
other hand, attract loyal fans because of the intricate flavor and texture
created from folding butter into layers of dough, prior to baking. Kouign
amann are more challenging to create, making them harder to find, but
those who know often refer to kouign amann as heaven on earth.

Explaining the science
In the pastry world, the final step of categorization comes down to nonlaminated and laminated doughs, according to Imperial Sugar. These
are often not confined by their leavened state, as a non-laminated or
laminated dough can be leavened.
Laminated pastry dough is made by folding a piece of pastry onto
itself many times. In between each layer is a thin slathering of butter.
This creates a multi-layered and flaky finished dough. Unleavened
examples of this kind of dough are puff pastry and phyllo dough. A
leavened version is a croissant. Non-laminated pastry are pastries
that have dough that has not been folded onto itself many times.
Unleavened versions of these types of dough include choux (used in
profiteroles and eclairs) and pie dough. A leavened version is brioche.
Lamination is a technique of dough preparation that layers butter
and dough in a long process of rolling and folding to create alternating
layers of fat and dough. Puff pastry (pâte feuilletée) is laminated dough.
Non-laminated dough is when the fat, normally butter, shortening,
or lard, is "cut-in" or sometimes rubbed into the flour. Non-laminated
doughs are pâte brisée (basic pie dough), pâte à choux (cream puff
pastry), pâte Sablée (short dough), and pâte Sucrée (sweet dough).

Laminated doughs
Though not as commercially popular as the croissant, the sweet and
flaky kouign amann rivals the delicate texture and delicious flavor of
any pastry.

BRITISH CL ASSIC

It is a specialty that traces its roots to the French town of
Douarnenez in Finis-tère, Brittany, where it originated around 1860.
The invention is attributed to Yves-René Scordia. The strict recipe of
Douarnenez requires a ratio of 40 percent dough, 30 percent butter,
and 30 percent sugar. It contains layers of butter and sugar folded into
a yeast dough.
In France kouign amann is often served with fillings of fresh fruit,
chocolate, or even coconut. The filling is nestled within the layers of
flaky dough. The quality of the butter is extremely important when
making kouign amann because the butter will impart a great deal of
flavor into the pastry.
Kouign amann is made using a similar method to its more widely
known French croissant. Salted butter is used instead of unsalted,
and an added layer of sugar is folded in with each layer of butter.
The whole creation is baked on a pan that's brushed with butter and
sugar. The 3-inch dough piece will rise to a full inch and a half height
during baking.
Customers flock to Jane the Bakery in San Francisco where they
concoct unique flavors including the peanut butter and jelly kouign
amann. Layers of butter and sugar are folded into a yeast dough; owner
Amanda Michael adds a special touch with house-made jam swirled
with peanut butter. In every bite, you taste a bit of each delicious flavor.
Michael bakes by a simple rule: Never skimp on inclusions.
Education is her mantra for Jane the Bakery (as well as Jane on
Fillmore and Jane on Larkin) and her staff of 100, including about
30 full-time bakers. She credits her team's incredible dedication and
passion for excellence. "We constantly work on developing skills in
the creative process," Michael says. "We encourage a lot of creativity
because you learn as much from your failures as your successes."
At Jane the Bakery, Michael opened her first San Francisco location in
2011, starting with pastries, breakfast and lunch items. A second store
followed in 2013. Then came their "bursting at the seams" moment.
In late 2016, Jane the Bakery opened on Geary Street in the Lower
Fillmore neighborhood, where a diverse community comes for bread,
sandwiches, pastries and fresh salads. The 3,000-square-foot bakery
offers limited counter seating and outside benches, and there are
nearby parks, playgrounds and athletic fields. They bake several dozen

MANRESA BREAD, METROPOLITAN MARKET

The Bakewell Tart happens to be one of the most popular examples of non-laminated doughs.
The version of this pastry made by Metropolitan Market features a flaky, buttery crust and fresh
raspberries on the inside, plus seasonal varieties like cranberry, pumpkin pecan, and blackberry
peach. This classic British dessert combines a buttery, tender short-crust pastry with a filling
of raspberry jam, frangipane (almond cream), and toasted almond slices, according to King
Arthur Flour.
"I can't imagine a better dessert, it's the perfect combination of buttery, almondy, and fruity
flavors. Sweet, but not too sweet, it's just right," says Nancy Lazara, who headed up creative and
culinary special projects for Metropolitan Market at the time.
In 2015, Metropolitan Market's team of global foragers were tasting their way through the
English countryside to find the next best thing to bring back to our stores. Waiting for them, in
a little shop outside Cheshire, was the Bakewell Tart; a decadent, buttery treat that effortlessly
celebrated the long tradition of great British baking.

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Supermarket Perimeter - August 2020

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