World Grain - March 2016 - 30

TECHNICAL PROFILE: TURKISH BREAD SPECIALTY

soluble proteins and enzymes, while the
percentage of gluten protein and starch
decreases. Flours with a higher ash content have poorer stability and a smaller
baked volume yield than lighter-colored
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Nevertheless, Turkish consumers do
not have to do without their light, airy
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the local mills can greatly enhance the
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with a higher mineral content. One efIHFWLYH PHWKRG LV WR DGG VSHFL¿F HQzymes in order to improve the stability
of the dough, increase the gas retention
capability, and thus enhance the baked
volume and bread structure.
The following is a typical ekmek
recipe:
x NJÀRXU
x 2.5 kg fresh yeast
x 1.5 kg salt
x 67 kg water
PROTECTING THE DOUGH STRUCTURE
Ekmek production is time consuming and labor intensive. Characteristic
features are very soft dough processes
and gentle preparation. When fork mixers are used, it takes about 45 minutes
for the dough to mix thoroughly. During
this time it can absorb the necessary
amount of water, at least 64%. When
mixed in this way, the dough undergoes
much less heating than with intensive
mixers. Therefore, there is no need to
add iced water.
In order to eliminate the risk of premature fermentation, the yeast is not
added until the dough has been thoroughly mixed, nor do the bakers add the
salt until shortly before the end of the
mixing process. This helps to bind the
surface moisture that occurs, thus improving the stability of the dough during
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The rest of the process also takes
patience. After rounding, the dough
portions are molded into an elongated
shape with very considerable tension.
The dough must be left to proof for at
least 90 minutes before baking.
In order to strengthen the protein
30

structure during this long fermentation
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with glucose oxidase. With its oxidative properties, this enzyme cross-links
the sulfhydryl groups of the gluten and
tightens the network. It also brings about
oxidative gelation of the pentosans. This
is accompanied by a strong water binding effect, especially noticeable on the
surface of the dough portions as a lack
of stickiness.

lipase (e.g. Alphamalt EFX Mega or
Mulgazym DFX). Adjust steam in
multi-deck ovens. Another option: allow the dough portions to form a thin
skin before placing in the oven.

Problem: Low volume.
Possible cause: Weak gluten (in respect of quantity and/or quality); low
enzymatic activity of the wheat.
Solution7UHDWWKHÀRXUZLWKDP\ODVes, ascorbic acid and/or glucose oxidasBAKING IN A WOOD-FIRED OVEN
es - Alphamalt A 6050 TR or Alphamalt
After an incision has been made in the A 15140, Elco C-100 or Elco P-100,
center or slightly to the side of the loaf, Alphamalt Gloxy 14080 - in order to
the dough portions are usually baked in stabilize the dough and improve the proDZRRG¿UHGRYHQ7KHRYHQLVIHGZLWK cessing properties and baked volume.
a certain number of fresh dough portions in a kind of rotation system, while
Problem: Low water absorption.
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Possible cause: Inadequate gluten
taken out.
quality or quantity; lower pentosan
This results in a consistently high, content.
natural humidity in the oven, which has
Solution: Add hydrocolloids, vital
a very positive effect on the splitting of wheat gluten or enzyme compounds (e.g.
the crust. A soft surface is achieved with EMCEgluten Enhancer 22, EMCEbest
very short baking times between 15 and WA Pure) in order to increase the water
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the crust as in baguettes, for example, is
not desirable with ekmek.
Problem: Crust too light in color.
Possible cause /RZHQ]\PH ÀRXU
MINIMIZING FAULTS IN PRODUCTION
baking temperature too low.
Turkish artisan bakers achieve real
Solution: Add amylase (e.g.
artistry with dough and are experts in Alphamalt A 15140 or Deltamalt FN)
the production of ekmek. Nevertheless, RUPDOWÀRXUHJ(0&(PDOWLQRUGHU
quality problems may occur in the prod- to intensify the Maillard reaction and
XFWVDVDUHVXOWRIÀXFWXDWLRQVLQWKHUDZ promote browning. Increase the baking
materials due to harvesting conditions, temperatures.
or if the bakery is having to contend
with personnel problems or technical
Problem: Dough not elastic enough.
restructuring.
Possible cause *OXWHQ WRR ¿UP WRR
The following is an overview of the little added water.
faults most often encountered and ways
Solution: Soften the dough and inof solving them:
crease its elasticity by adding amylase
(e.g. Alphamalt A 15140), hemicellulase
Problem: Inadequate shred.
(e.g. Alphamalt H 20434) or - less comPossible cause: Dough too soft, fer- mon - protease (e.g. Alphamalt Pro). Add
mentation too long, ambient air too PRUHZDWHU0L[GRXJKVVXI¿FLHQWO\
moist during fermentation, too much
Martina Mollenhauer is product manager
steam.
at Mühlenchemie. She can be contacted at
Solution: Adjust the amount of wammollenhauer@muehlenchemie.com
ter added, shorten the mixing time.
We want to hear from you - Send comments and
Optimize dough properties and oven inquiries to worldgrain@sosland.com. For reprints of
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WG articles, e-mail reprints@sosland.com.
March 2016 / World Grain / www.World-Grain.com

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World Grain - March 2016

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