Luxury Life & Style - (Page 70)

delicious diversions Arts and Crafts: Hollywood Restauranting 101 There are certain circuits, symmetries and geometries in the food and wine world that are themselves subjects to study. One such course might examine the holy triangle of pinot noir: Burgundy (Roumier) to Oregon (Lemelson) to Central Otago (Carrick), with appropriate apologies elsewhere. Another class might track the Celebrity Chef Express, a torrid train that demands a pit-stop in Vegas while shoring up reserves, both literally and figuratively, for an assault on Los Angeles. Yet another class might address a chef’s mathematical formula for surviving and thriving in Hollywood, where so many decent restaurants perish as yesterday’s fad flavor. Such were my thoughts as I finagled a 5 p.m. dinner reservation at official new hotspot, Craft, where they’ve been officially not open for two weeks’ time. Dinner with a girlfriend, a Curator, for two blessed hours sans baby, husband or nanny was well worth the full sunlight glinting off our sparkly Bernardaud dinner plates. Craft is a New York restaurant transplanted to Century City via a trial outpost in Dallas, Texas. Helmed by perhaps the most visible of today’s new celebrity chefs, Tom Colicchio of TV’s Top Chef, Craft may prove to be the template for high-wattage restauranting. I used to live on by Bonnie Graves 20th Street in New York, where Colicchio’s first big outpost, Gramercy Tavern, and his original Craft flagship are both located, so I literally have watched his empire expand before my very eyes. Gramercy Tavern is beloved by virtually everyone, and if some don’t love it, I declare them to be cadavers of taste. My experiences at Craft New York have been spottier – sometimes great, do-it-yourself entrées emerge from the forest of protein and side dish choices. Other times, one wishes that the chef would help us out and discourage us from, say, heaps of beets paired with sablefish. But this is the concept of Craft, where the menu presents food items in terms of their cooking method – i.e., cured/marinated, 70 Luxury Life & Style September/October 2007

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Luxury Life & Style

Editor's Note
Carte Blanche
Feature Home
Artist Profile
Out & About
From the Cellar
Healthy Living
Luxury Life & Style Real Estate
On the Market
Vacation Properties

Luxury Life & Style