Guatemala Travel Planner - (Page 6)
The Living Maya
of the Highlands
In the view of many travelers, the
Western Highlands are what a journey
to Guatemala is all about. The scenery
is spectacular-rolling hills, towering
volcanoes, and pristine lakes in this
region of "eternal spring."
Historic towns present monumental
reminders of a defining colonial past.
And surely one of the most special
travel rewards is encountering the
"living" Maya descendants of the
ancient temple builders, who can trace
their roots back centuries as members
of tribes such as Cakchiquel, Tzutuhil
or Quiche. They carry on traditions
in colorful dress, gather weekly at
markets to sell their finely made crafts,
and celebrate their heritage in religious
ceremonies and festivals that are often
a dramatic mix of Christian and preHispanic beliefs.
Lake Atitlan, sacred in Mayan beliefs
and legends, is a magical place. This
mile-high lake offers panoramas of
volcanic peaks, verdant green hills, and
crystalline waters stretching eight by
11 miles-no wonder English novelist
Aldous Huxley called it "the most
beautiful lake in the world." Located
three hours northward from Antigua,
6
Atitlan's waters rest in a volcanic cradle,
with three perfectly conical volcanoes-
Atitlan (11,565 ft.), Toliman (10,340 ft.),
and San Pedro (9,920 ft.) dominating
the horizon.
Around the shores of the lake are 12
indigenous villages, each named for one
of the apostles and each with its own
distinctive weave. When here, travel
by boat from the pier in Panajachel,
the most convenient base for exploring
the region, to Santiago Atitlan, whose
"main street" leads from the shore to
the village church, past thatched roof
houses where women sit in the yards
weaving. The market here, at its liveliest
on Sundays, is also the province of
the women, many of whom wear their
village's distinctive red headdresses
called cortes, and white and purple
blouses called huipiles. Continue by
boat to other villages such as San
Juan La Laguna, a special village
whose Tzutuhil inhabitants take pride
in their traditions of weaving and naif
painting. This village has two language
institutes and several fine little B&Bs.
Lakeside settlements accessible by
car or bicycle include Santa Caterina
Palopo, known for its vibrantly colored
huipiles, and the more traditional village
of San Antonio Palopo, set beneath a
steep, well-terraced hillside. When not
out touring, guests around Lake Atitlan
get even more active when out fishing,
waterskiing, windsurfing, scuba diving or
hang gliding.
Chichicastenango, 45 minutes away,
is the town where hundreds of ethnic
vendors gather for one of the country's
largest indigenous markets each
Thursday and Sunday. They barter for
fresh produce, livestock and handicrafts,
including textiles, ceramics, wooden
saints, leather bags, hand-woven belts
and hand-carved masks. These Quiche
Maya people also gather at Santo
Tomas Church, a mecca for those
seeking guidance and favors from both
Mayan and Christian deities; it graces
the market square at one end, facing
El Calvario chapel. Travelers arriving
the night before market day can stay
at one of the town's charming colonialstyle inns to be on hand early for the
best buys. "Chichi" is also home to the
centuries-old Pascual Abaj shrine where
Maya ceremonies replete with flickering
candles, flowers, incantations and
offerings are regular occurrences.
Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Guatemala Travel Planner
A Colonial Heritage
The Living Maya of the Highlands
El Mundo Maya
Call of the Wild
An Appetite for the Arts
Land of Active Adventures
Tasting Guatemala
Festivals Galore
Marvelous Markets
Marvelous Markets
Guatemala Travel Planner
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