Recommend December 2017 - 54
in charge, their influence still visible in
the beautiful Indo-Islamic architecture
and monuments. Today, the economy
thrives on IT and bio-tech industries, while
minarets, mosques and modern highrises dot the skyline of this 400-year-old
metropolis. The Old City is dotted with
mosques, including the Mecca Masjid
accommodating 10,000 worshippers, and
the oldest, Jama Masjid; this central
district also teems with bazaars, such
as the fabulous Lad Bazaar, where
colored-glass bangles, superb textiles and
silk saris are among the top buys. You'll
probably always remember feasting on
local delicacies, like the famous biryani rice
dishes based on the culinary traditions of
the Nizam rulers. Even more memorable
will be a stay at the Taj Falaknuma
Palace, the 19th century home of the
sixth Nizam of Hyderabad, transformed
into a 60-room luxury property.
the charming city that exported spices and
coffee and imported culture and religion
from Europe, China and the Middle East.
Today each district-many connected
by ferry-has a distinct personality. Fort
Kochi is at the historic heart of the city
and is the oldest European settlement
in India; here you find the Anglican St.
Francis Church, India's oldest European
church, while just a rickshaw ride away
is Fort Kochi's Mattancherry quarter,
home to the "Dutch" Palace, Paradesi
Synagogue, and warehouses filled with
antiques and trinkets. Certainly, take
time to book an Ayurveda massage, take
in a cooking lesson, attend an evening
performance of kathakali, Kerala's classical
dance-drama, and at the water's edge of
Fort Kochi, stay awhile at the Brunton
Boatyard Hotel whose balconies
overlook the harbor.
sweet & spiCy
Home to the irrepressible Bengalis,
KOLKATA, jewel in the throne of the
British Raj and now capital of West Bengal,
is known as an intellectual and cultural
hub, with five Nobel Prize winners. You will
certainly want to experience the highlights,
ranging from the Indian Museum,
the white marble Victoria Memorial
KOCHI is located in the southwest Indian
state of Kerala, and Kerala is hot: literally
climate-wise and a favorite with travelers
hankering to float on houseboats along
tropical backwaters, tour tea plantations,
and enjoy wildlife safaris. Kochi (or Cochin,
as the locals prefer to call it) is historically
54
Chaos & Creativity
and the Center of International
Modern Art (CIMA), to the city's most
famous pilgrimage temple, Kalighat
Kali, dedicated to the vengeful patron
goddess of Kolkata, or the Pareshnath
Temple, the city's prettiest. Go very early
to the Howrah Bridge to witness the
people bathing in the Hooghly River and
the chaos of the colorful flower market,
meet the Bengalis in their popular coffee
houses, and walk through the Kumartuli
potters' village. The Oberoi Grand is a
quintessential Kolkata monument, while
the JW Marriott is the newest of the
international brands. Remember, you'll
need a permit to visit the Sundarbans
National Park (50 miles from Kolkata)
and a reservation to stay at the deluxe
Sundarban Tiger Camp: yes, tigers!
Bright Lights, Big City
Gateway of India still describes MUMBAI
(a.k.a. Bombay), most certainly for
commerce and visitors heading south;
it's India's largest city, a powerhouse of
media and finance by day, party capital by
night. Two of the city's must-see sites take
practice to pronounce: the Chhatrapati
Shivaji rail terminal, a magnificent Victorian
showpiece, and the Chhatrapati
Shivaji Maharaj Vastu Sangrahalaya
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