Recommend December 2017 - 40

janet del mastro

ITALY

"Doing" magical Italy is a lifetime job,
proof positive that the world is indeed
a wondrous stage set with wildly varied
landscapes, dazzling cities, and yes, the
Italians themselves. Andiamo!
Central Italy is the cradle of Latin
civilization, one-time capital of the Roman
Empire. Its centerpiece is roMe, the
Eternal City, where 25 centuries of history
is crowded into its maze of alleys and
squares, while its splendors include the
Vatican's eight museums-with four miles
of rooms and galleries. Savor Rome's
beauty from atop the capitoline Hill,
or from a sidewalk cafe, and watch the
world go by in the Piazza Navona and
marvel at Bernini's fountain. Survey the
contemporary art scene at the MAcro
museum, and join the debate on Rome's
best trattoria: for a head-start, Felice a
Testaccio is a Roman institution. And
this may be your year to catch summer
opera and ballet performances amid the
ruins of the Baths of caracalla or to
reserve ahead for May's "Open House
Roma," an insider look at normally closed
palaces, art collections, private homes and
archaeological sites. You may be interested
in knowing that the 1889-vintage Hotel
eden, located near the Spanish Steps,
18

Jump on a vaporetto to discover Venice's famed canals.

has recently emerged after an extensive
face-lift, including 98 opulent guestrooms
refreshed with gold detailing and original
art work. The property, run by the
Dorchester collection, now hosts a topfloor La Terrazza dell'eden restaurant
and a spa with four treatment rooms.

a Cultural oasis
FLorence, Italy's most visited
destination, is the city of Michelangelo
and the Medici, unsurpassed for its art
collections at the Uffizi Gallery, Palazzo
Pitti, with its Medici collection (and Boboli
Gardens), and at the new Museo del
novecento. The most recent museum
opening is the Gucci Museo, the place
to learn all about the luxury labels of
this fashion giant. Walking tours take
you past the monumental Duomo, over
the iconic Ponte Vecchio, to Piazzale
Michelangelo and 15th century palaces,
while in the foothills just outside the city
are the magnificent estates that once
served as country homes for wealthy
families. Newly re-dressed in Florence
is the Hotel Lungarno, sited along the
Arno that bisects the city; it is owned by
the fashion-famous Ferragamo family,
and reopened in June with 64 expanded

rooms and a 400-piece art collection,
including works by Picasso and Cocteau.
Of course, Florence is the capital of and
gateway to charming, bucolic Tuscany.
Just to cite a few must-visits: Siena is one
of Italy's best-preserved medieval towns
and is the site of the colorful Palio horse
race, held every year in July and August,
while hilltop San Gimignano, a UNESCO
World Heritage site, offers 14 medieval
towers and top-rated Italian gelato. For a
bit of sand, sun and fun along the Tuscan
coast, head for Viareggio on the Tyrrhenian
Sea, also spending time in nearby Lucca
whose pedestrian walkways atop the city's
fortress walks permit visitors a bird's-eye
view of this historic town. Come down to
earth for Lucca's musical Summer Festival,
and stay in Tuscany for a cooking class, but
you must book ahead for tastings of Tuscan
and Chianti red wines.

Heaven on eartH
Forming the third side of Italy's core Rome/
Florence triangle is Venice, floating
dreamlike on canals and lagoons. You
could spend all your time in the Piazza
San Marco, and arty hours viewing the
Peggy Guggenheim collection. Come
Feb. 8-15, consider dressing up and
Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Recommend December 2017
