Clean Run Magazine - October 2009 - 52

1 FC 2 P 3 4 5 P 3 BC A wrap with a blind cross Tell the dog where he is turning by moving toward the next obstacle and marker P on the line you want your dog to be on after the front cross. All your cues to turn should be presented before your dog takes off, and it’s important that you keep to the line you want your dog to be on so he knows where to go. • A blind cross as shown in Figure 4. The lines are the same as for the front cross, but you turn your body the other way. Both turning of your body and changing your hand are completed before the dog takes off. Make sure to keep moving forward on the line you want your dog to be on between #3 and #4. No matter which alternative you choose, you should make sure never to cross the green dashed line, since the dog is not moving forward after any of the jumps. And don’t stop while turning, because this can cause a handler-dog collision or loss of speed. The sequence in Figure 5 is from midcourse, so picture coming into it at speed and with your dog on your left. First you get to a pinwheel, and after that you do a front cross so that you then get a regular turn to the farthest tunnel entrance. Follow Jenny’s first rule so you support your dog with your driving shoulder and your hand throughout the pinwheel. At the same time, tell the dog where he is turning by moving toward the next obstacle and marker P on the line you want your dog to be on after the front cross. Since there is a regular turn to the tunnel, it’s important that you apply the jigsaw rule so that both you and your dog are moving in the right direction over the jump and toward the farthest tunnel entrance. Make sure that you keep your hand to your side from the marker P toward the tunnel entrance; add your dog’s name for extra clarity. In Figure 6 there’s part of a course where a blind cross will be very smooth and fast. You’ll begin by using hand out = dog out, and send your dog to #3 with your left hand and a verbal Go Out cue. At the same time, run toward the tunnel and when you feel your dog going for the correct side of #3, it’s time to quickly turn toward the tunnel so that you present your new side (your right side in this case), before your dog jumps #3. All your cues to turn should be presented before your dog takes off, and it’s important that you keep to the line you want your dog to be on so he knows where to go. Blind cross G all your cues to turn should be presented before your dog takes off, and it’s important that you keep to the line you want your dog to be on so he knows where to go. Figure 7 illustrates a good place for a blind cross when you wish to change sides after the weave poles. Your dog can then easily get a straight path to the next obstacle and you can move forward on the course. If your dog isn’t yet trained to weave in the face of distractions, it’s important to remember to do the blind cross after he clears the weave poles. what decides if you can do a blind cross after the weave poles is whether you can run ahead of your dog while he’s weaving; and preferably, he can also do so with you at some lateral distance. If so, you can just run past, keeping one hand behind you to stay connected with your dog. when you see his nose entering the last pole, you execute your blind cross. Maintain your speed through the cross; otherwise you risk a stop and/or a crooked path. What decides if you can do a blind cross after the weave poles is whether you can run ahead of your dog while he’s weaving; and preferably, he can also do the weaves with you at some lateral distance. Clean Run | October 09

Clean Run Magazine - October 2009

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Clean Run Magazine - October 2009