Clean Run - November 2012 - (Page 16)

By Nancy Gyes Working Opposites drills 2 3 1 Blue: Push to right tunnel Red: Pull to left tunnel Blue: Push to the back ofof jump Blue: Push to the back jump Red: Pull to the front of jump Red: Pull to the front of jump Blue: Push to far tunnel Red: Pull to near tunnel When working on perfecting the small details in my handling, I find it is extremely helpful to show the dog a maneuver and reward for his correct response to my body language cue, and then to immediately do a maneuver that would be “opposite” to that maneuver. This is no different than discrimination training; for example, when practicing a dogwalk/tunnel discrimination, you first ask your dog to do the tunnel and then you ask him to do the dogwalk from the same approach. Using that as a guide I might also do three tunnels in a row, then switch to asking for the contact obstacle. Or I might try to be totally random in my training, such as dogwalk, dogwalk, tunnel, dogwalk, tunnel, tunnel, dogwalk, tunnel, dogwalk. Remember, it is hard to be random unless you make a specific plan for that process. 16 When working opposites in jump drills you also want to make a plan for how the training will progress, such as one push to the back side of the jump, two pulls to the front side, one push, one pull. With these short drills you should be rewarding often, not just immediately moving on to the next set. That said, when using the tunnel approach to the handling discrimination I might do a push, send to the tunnel, do a pull, send to the tunnel, and then repeat without stopping until I have done four or five sets. Your handling of opposites should also include showing your dog the difference between your front cross, rear cross, and post turn—all on the same sets of obstacles, with the same approach to the obstacle at which you will cue your turn. Here’s another way to use opposites training: suppose your dog misreads a cue such as a push to the back side of jump, and he pulls to the inside instead. At that point I might show the dog what my handling cue is for the front side a few times and then reward. Only then will I go back and ask for the backside and make a great effort to be totally clear in my body cue so the dog can see the difference. When you reward your dog you reward yourself. After you hand your dog a treat as a reward, or stand in place to tug, or watch your dog run for a tossed reinforcement, you have a moment to notice where you are standing and if your body and feet are pointed in the correct direction. So, rewarding your dog gives you important reinforcement that will help you be consistent in your cues. There are over 30 short drills in these setups, I hope it will make for a rewarding and educational training session or week of sessions! D Clean Run Clean Run || November 12

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Clean Run - November 2012

Clean Run - November 2012
Editorializing: Sportsmanship Is Not Just About Being Nice
Tip of the Month
Everything You Always Wanted to Know About Agility...
Backyard Dogs
The Four Agreements
Power Paws Drills: Working Opposites
Training with the Stars: Jeannette Hutchison
What’s in Your Toolbox?
Being a Good Student, Part 1
Analyze This!
Tips for Weave Pole Entries
Not a Practice Dog Anymore
The 2-Minute Warm-up
The Worrier: Solutions for the Dog That Is Worried or Afraid
What Is a Ketschker Turn?
Agility Mind Gym: Persistence and Determination
Building Blocks: Building a Better Lead-out

Clean Run - November 2012