THE BEST OF INTIMA – 02/2010 - 169

PHOTO CREDITS: P. NOTEBAERT

ingerie spirit, another illustrate this period, the variant of the famous Calais production is pre“couture spirit” well sented with a classic Hollyknown among fashion aficiowood Cinema backdrop to nados. The comparison betget a better feel of the ween the clothing garment times in question. and lingerie brings forward The visit then brings the the reflection of their similaThrough a local, contemporary and lingerie up to the current rities. The setting for this historical look, in a true original set- time period, where the pheexhibition captures this hybrid nomenon of lingerie as “spirit”, with an over-under ting, the mutual influence of the two ready-to-wear garments is dichotomy brought forward clothing universes come together as wider than ever with Haute with cuts, knits, patterns and one in a one-of-a-kind exhibition, which Couture as well as with creations from the feminine lingerie and corsetry mathe Best of Intima has wanted to wardrobe. So the journey bekers. The exhibition also share with its readers. gins with a look on the imstages the portance of lingerie in Hauteworks of 3 Couture workshops, then on the development of contemporary artists who have sharlingerie licenses. The words “Lingerie Spirit” are ply put lingerie concepts into quesalso closely linked to the memories of thousands tion, between vision and milestone, of Calais residents for whom in the spirit of the body. Have a 1 lace factories have algood visit! ways played a key The Dawn of a New Silhouette part in their lives. The end of World War II and the Since 1840, the German occupation in Europe also town saw the devesaw the end of ration coupons, reslopment of the beautrictions, deprivations and other tiful “Dentelle de Calais” manufactured on substitution forms… all 2 Leavers looms. At the bewomen wanted to forget ginning of the 20th century, the the war’s hardships. town of Calais had gained worldAlong came the visionary wide fame for its silk lace, desspirit of Christian Dior, tined for dress manufacturing. which acted in perfect harHowever, the evolution of intermony with the times; the national markets and the massive Dior bomb arrived like a destructions of production units gift. The creator of the during World War II modified the Calais industry “New Look” imagined a new feand now the distinction between Calais and Caudry, minine silhouette, “flower wothe two main mechanical lace manufacturing centers men”, with petite waistlines, in France, is well established. The lingerie lace is best represented with the made in Calais while Caudry makes the one used “Bar” dress suit. To reinforce in dresses, but there are no set-up rules. To the thin waistline effect, the

1. BRUYÈRE, NIGHT CORSET, CIRCA 1950- CIDM, PHOTO EMMANUEL WATTEAU 2. NIGHTGOWN, 1930 – CIDM 96.9.105, PHOTO EMMANUEL WATTEAU 3. MARCEL ROCHAS, BUSTIERS, 1952 – CIDM 91.1.8, PHOTO EMMANUEL WATTEAU

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THE BEST OF INTIMA – 02/2010

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