Wine & Spirits - Winter 2016 - 20


Spirits
SUNTORY TOKI WHISKY

CARPANO DRY VERMOUTH

TEQUILA PASOTE

While it may seem that our world is
suddenly awash in Japanese single malts,
the fact is that we're already in a shortage.
Last year, as demand continued to build
for its limited stocks, Suntory took the
age statement off its Hibiki, suggesting
less of the precious older stocks were
being used. This year, they've introduced
Toki, a welcome addition to the portfolio.
Whereas Hibiki is a burnished, complex
sipper, Suntory's latest release, Toki, is a
light, bright, perky spirit with a surprising
punch of flavor-apple, citrus and honey
notes backed by a lingering smokiness. It
makes an elegant summer whisky served
on the rocks, but it also seems destined to
usher the return of the whisky highball,
which has become the drink of choice in
Tokyo these days. It's very refreshing when
made as they do, stirred over rocks in a tall
glass, then joined with super-bubbly soda
water and a lemon twist.
Imported by Beam Suntory, Deerfield, IL;
43% abv, $40

Carpano Antica Formula red vermouth has
been a treasured bar staple, if not a cult
item, since the modern cocktail revival.
Enthusiasts who have traveled to Italy's
Piedmont may know of the existence
of the other Carpano vermouths, but
only in the last year have they become
available in the US. While the vermouth
market has exploded in recent years with
new products, to taste this Carpano is to
sample a vermouth without an agenda or
a hook. It simply and straightforwardly
provides the function of a dry aromatized,
fortified wine. And while it may lack the
complexities or unusual flavorings of some
of the new vermouths, it does the job most
of us ask of our white vermouths better
than any of them: It mixes beautifully.
That is, it makes the best martini of
any vermouth I've tasted. Because it
integrates so well, it can be used in greater
proportion than other vermouths (I like 3
ounces of gin to a half-ounce of Carpano
Dry). Incidentally, don't confuse it with
Carpano Bianco, which is sweeter.
Imported by Infinium Spirits,
Aliso Viejo, CA; 18% abv, $22/L

Years ago, I largely abandoned Tequila for
the more complex, flavorful and soulful
terrain of mezcal. Pasote is one of the
few Tequilas I've tasted that reminds me
why the spirit became popular in the
first place. Pasote's rich, smooth texture
carries an abundance of powerful flavor,
from exotic fruit and vegetable notes to
peppery highlights and subtle minerality.
That Pasote should taste like this perhaps
shouldn't surprise: It's made by agave
wizard Felipe Camarena, whose family has
consistently produced the region's best
bottlings, from El Tesoro to Tapatio to
Ocho. While it also comes in reposado and
añejo forms, Pasote's basic blanco needs
no wood. Its clean, expressive purity and
warm, rich finish of pepper and stone fruit
is all one could ask of a Tequila.

20

WINE & SPIRITS

BUYING GUIDE 2017

Imported by 3 Badge Beverage Corp.,
Sonoma, CA; 40% abv, $49
Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Wine & Spirits - Winter 2016
