Baking & Snack - June 2010 - 51

BAKER GIVES
"STARTING FROM
SCRATCH"
A NEW MEANING

53
ate by an acid. "When cutting the
sodium load in baked foods, formulators should look first at reduction
of sodium chloride or replacement
with an alternative such as potassium chloride, then at alternatives
among leavening acids," said Rob
Berube, manager, technical services,
Specialty Products Division, Church
& Dwight Co., Inc., Princeton, NJ.
"The bicarbonate is the other side of
the equation."
Church & Dwight supplies all three
of the bicarbonates used in food systems: sodium, potassium and ammonium. "Potassium bicarbonate has an
additional advantage," Mr. Berube explained. "Its potassium is one of only
two minerals for which FDA supports
a health claim. The other is calcium."
Other sources of potassium can be
bitter, with a metallic or fishy taste,
according to Mr. Berube, but that is
not true of potassium bicarbonate.
It can actually have a positive effect
on sweetness of flavors. "Its taste is
essentially neutral," he said.
When using potassium bicarbonate, its amount must be increased by
19% over the weight of sodium bicarbonate because of the difference in
molecular weight between the heavier potassium and the lighter sodium.
Additionally, potassium bicarbonate
is hygroscopic, so Church & Dwight
added a flow aid to produce Flow-K.
"The flow aid reduces the tendency to
lump," Mr. Berube explained.
The company has done studies
of partial replacement of sodium
bicarbonate by potassium bicarbonate. "Partial replacement is an angle
that some formulators may wish to
use to solve the sodium puzzle," Mr.
Berube said. (Some of its results are
illustrated on Page 57.)
Ammonium bicarbonate is another alternative, but it is only practical
for low-moisture applications, those
containing 5% or less moisture in the
finished product. In higher moisture
foods, the water tends to retain the
ammonia, thus affecting the flavor,
Mr. Berube noted. It also acts without

a leavening acid because heat (140°F,
60°C) will liberate its carbon dioxide,
as will any acidic ingredients already
present in the formula.
LEAVENING ACIDS. The bakers'
favorite leavening acid has been sodium acid pyrophosphate (SAPP),
but it is also the highest in sodium
content. "Bakers tend to reach for
what they know best, and for years,
that has been SAPP," Mr. Brodie said.
"But there's so much more out there."
He described the company's Actif-8
product, a combination of sodium
aluminum phosphate (SALP) and
calcium phosphate that is 1.3% sodium. "Very low indeed," he observed.
The chief functional aspect of a leavening acid is its dough rate of reaction,
the speed at which it releases CO2 from
the baking soda. Mono- and dicalcium
phosphates (MCP and DCP) differ
considerably in speed, with MCP very
fast and DCP very slow. Calcium acid
pyrophosphate (CAPP) can moderate between them, as it does in a new
range of leavening acids from ICL
Performance Products. Ms. Heidolph
explained, "Levona is based on CAPP
and is now available in two styles: Levona Opus, similar in rate of release to
the slowest SAPP, and Levona Brio is
like a SAPP 28, faster and suitable for
dry mixes."
Innophos developed its Cal-Rise by
combining MCP with CAPP in a proprietary co-manufacturing process. It
is sodium-free and directly replaces
SAPP 28 in bakery applications. "We
saw the need early on to replace SAPP,"
Mr. Brodie said. "Because Cal-Rise has
the same neutralizing value (72) as
SAPP, formulators can use it to replace
the sodium acid on a 1:1 basis." The
company also developed Dough-Rise,
a blend of Cal-Rise and SALP. (Neutralizing values rate the leavening acids by the amount of bicarbonate they
convert into leavening gasses.)
New marketing opportunities
represent an important side benefit
of CAPP. For example, SALP is on
Whole Foods' list of "unacceptable

C:�ii
I'

ndependent baker Fred Piechocki
comes from a proud family of
bakers. However, during the Great
Depression, his grandfather, Stanley,
and father, Edward, lost their bakery.
As a result, this third generation
baker had no recipes or business to
carry on.
So what did Fred do? He started his
bakery from scratch. In 1979, Fred
opened The Cakery Bakery in
Philadelphia, Pennsylvania. Ten
years later, he moved to Warrington,
Pennsylvania, where he and longtime friend, Henry Stoughton,
opened the Warrington Pastry Shop.
Fred describes his business as a
European style, traditional bakery
where products are baked from
scratch every day.
Best known for the 60 to 100 decorated cakes it produces a week,
Warrington Pastry Shop also turns
out 10 to 15 wedding cakes a weekend during prime wedding season.
It is also well known for Danish,
regular cakes, cupcakes, butter cakes,
cinnamon buns and donuts.
"My greatest accomplishment is to
consistently produce a high-quality
product," said Fred. International®
Bakers Services has played a key role
in maintaining this quality.
"When I started out, I received a
sample of International® Bakers
Services B&V® and I have used IBS
flavors ever since," Fred recalled.
His bakery also uses chocolate,
banana, rum, coconut and hazelnut
flavors. "I am very happy with IBS
products," Fred stated. "They are
easy to use, very consistent and
economical. Most importantly, the
flavors hold up."
"Using ingredients that will keep
product quality high will make you
proud to be an independent baker,"
Fred advised. If you value consistent
quality, you should get to know
International® Bakers Services.
Contact us toll-free at (800) 3457175, by fax at (574) 287-7161, or in
writing at 1902 North Sheridan Ave.,
South Bend, Indiana 46628. We have
the flavors your customers deserve.
For more information, see Page 105

June 2010 / BAKING & SNACK

Baking & Snack - June 2010

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