Theatre Design & Technology - Spring 1988 - 32

THREE SLEEVES-1896

The follm-ving pattern drafts for three sleeve styles by Lynda Bender are from original pattern drafts of ladies wear from
1896 issues of Harper's Bazaar in her private collection. The dmfts are presented in scale with construction notes from the
magazine.
he three sleeves illustrated here
were originally published in
Harper's Bazaar, January 1 ,1 96, under the title" ew Sleeves of Moderate
Width." They are representative of the
types of styles conunonly found on
day and evening wear. The twO long
sleeves both show the full "Ieg o'mutton" style with extreme fullness at the

shoulder and a tight lower sleeve. Both
are mounted on the same simple Lilldersleeve. One of the sleeves shows
the new ruched or Renaissance style
where the lower arm has full puffs
secured in twO SpotS to control the
fullness. The other is a more traditiona style; the full cap narrows into
fom large darts in the forearm and is

finished with a tight cuff. The third
style is an everung sleeve to be made of
thin material. It is also mounted on an
undersleeve. The pLLff is a simple pattern enhanced by the lower pleating
and the addition of the garland of
flowers.

The original construction notes are as follows:
Ne\N Sleeves of Moderate Width

f the three sleeves illustrated in
this group, Figure 3 is suitable for
tailor gowns and simple woolens. Figure 1 for more dressy gowns of silk,
while Figure 2 is for a decollete evening gown of thin material or silk. Cut
the lining for the first from Figure 53,
observing the outline of the upper half.
This lining is suitable for any long full
sleeve. Cut the outside material for
the upper pan of the lining from Figure 54, cover the under part of the
lining smootWy with material. Line
Figure 54 with foundation and sew up
the dans at the front by lapping and
stitching the edges. Pleat X to 0 and
gather the top between points', baste
it on the upper half of the lining and
join the upper and under parts of the
sleeve. Trim the wrist with the cuff
cut from Figure 55 which is interlined
with stiff foundation.
For the sleeve in Figure I, the lining
is also cut from Figure 53. The outside
is cut on the double from Figure 58,
sloping the under half top and bottom
as indicated. Join the outer seam of the
lining from 27 to 2 . Gather both side
edges of Figure 5 ,gather the top between points . and gather the under
half along the line. Baste on the lining
with the points: meeting that of the
lining and join the inner seam. Face
the wrist, including the point, putting
in foundation interlining. Tack the
points . a and . b in the upper half of
the outside material to the corresponding points of the lining.
For the short sleeve in Figure 2, cut
the lining from Figure 56 and cut the
pLLff from Figure 57, sloping the top of
the under half of both as outlined.
Pleat the lower four inches of the puff

TD&T'

SPRING 1900

Fig. 1

Fig. 2

Fig. 3

in close inch-wide pleats reducing it to
fit the lining. Gather the top and in the
upper half gather down the line from:
to :, mount on the lilung with like

signs and figures meeting. In the
model the lower edge is finished with
a garland and a cluster of flowers is
placed in the gathered space.

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