Georgia Magazine - September 2010 - (Page 63)

new career was an evening spent with people who disparaged Southern food as being nothing but overcooked vegetables swimming in fat. He lost it, and followed up his irate defense of Southern victuals with a half-dozen tomes on the subject. Perusing some of Fowler’s titles, one picks up something that the late chef and author Edna Lewis (19162006), whom he admired, often commented on with respect to Southern food and its spiritual kinship with the cooking of Central Northern Italy— with its respect for pork in seasoning foods as well as polenta. Italian food and its devotees inspire what he does, and, he says, “Being a Southerner colors how I interpret that food [Italian].” One could argue for a spiritual affinity between the two cuisines: the respect for slow cooking, purity of ingredients and flavor. His comments echo how passionate Lewis was about Italian cooking, which she claimed as her second-favorite cuisine after Southern. Another of his acknowledged mentors is Italian chef and cooking teacher Marcella Hazan, and he recounts with reverence her and her husband, Victor’s, encouragement of his labors. These books reflect not just Fowler’s research into the roots and results of Southern cooking, but also document the dishes he grew up eating, such as dishes his revered grandmother made (the Granny Fowler sometimes referenced in a given recipe). What is his own cooking like? “My cooking is a mishmash, catholic, like Southern food has always been, the way Monticello was,” he says, adding that Jefferson’s sanctuary was not some isolated refuge “where they cooked rice smuggled out of Italy.” Jefferson’s immediate neighbor across the road was the Italian physician Filippo Mazzei (1730-1816), and the two are likely to have discussed cui- sine along with politics and viticulture. Yet, the cooking at Monticello was “solidly Southern,” says Fowler, as is his own. Busy with other projects, Fowler also does cooking classes both locally and reaching as far as Southern Seasons in Chapel Hill, N.C., and the Midwest. A founder and past president of the Southern Foodways Alliance, a food society dedicated to studying, documenting and celebrating the culture of Southern food, he serves as culinary director of Kitchenware Outfitters in Savannah, and writes about food for various publications. Freelance writer Jane F. Garvey, of Decatur, is passionate about food, travel and wine. Mrs. Annabella Hill’s cookbook from 1867, from which this onion custard recipe is taken, documents the cooking of Central West Georgia prior to the Civil War. Fowler presents it in both editions of his “Classical Southern Cooking.” It would be fabulous as an appetizer or as a savory side dish with roast chicken or pork loin. Annabella Hill’s Onion Custard 10 medium white onions, trimmed, split lengthwise, peeled, thinly sliced 3 tablespoons unsalted butter 4 large eggs 2 cups half-and-half or whole milk Salt and whole black pepper in a peppermill Whole nutmeg in a grater Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 350 degrees. Put the onions and butter in a large cast-iron or heavy nonstick skillet and turn on the heat to medium. Simmer, stirring frequently, until the onions are a rich gold. Scooping with a slotted spoon, spread them on a cutting board, and chop them fine. Break eggs into a large mixing bowl and beat until they are light and smooth. Gradually beat in the half-and-half, a little at a time, and stir in the onion, a healthy pinch of salt, a few grindings of pepper and freshly grated nutmeg to taste. Pour the custard into a shallow earthenware or glass casserole (about a 9x9-inch square, or 10-inch round one). Bake in the center of the oven until the custard is set, but still slightly runny in the center, like an omelet, about 15 minutes. Serve it in the baking dish. Serves 6-8. Fowler recalls the first time he ever had curried shrimp—it was at a lunch cooked by former Savannah Morning News food editor Martha Giddens Nesbit; it, along with this Lowcountry Steamed Rice, is featured in Fowler’s “The Savannah Cookbook.” Curried Shrimp 4 tablespoons unsalted butter 1 large (or 2 medium) cloves garlic, crushed, peeled but left whole 1 medium yellow onion, trimmed, split lengthwise, peeled, chopped fine 2 generous teaspoons curry powder, or to taste For a BONUS recipe—Damon Lee Fowler’s delicious Syllabub dessert recipe— see page 70B of the September digital edition, online at www.georgiamagazine.org. September 2010 More online at www.georgiamagazine.org Subtly fragrant curry and local-caught brown shrimp make this Curried Shrimp served over Lowcountry Steamed Rice a favorite Savannah meal. 63 JOHN ROBERT CARRINGTON III / REPRINTED WITH PERMISSION OF GIBBS SMITH http://www.georgiamagazine.org http://www.georgiamagazine.org

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Georgia Magazine - September 2010

Georgia Magazine - September 2010
Contents
Viewpoint
Mailbox
Picture This!
Georgia News
Calendar
Currents
Special Energy Report
A Fast Track to the Airwaves
Crossing Cultures
Georgia's First Botanical Garden
The 2010 Washington Youth Tour
Higher Education in Georgia
Around Georgia
Travel Guide
My Georgia
Georgia@Home
Georgia Gardens
Georgia Cooks
Cookbook of the Month
Snapshot

Georgia Magazine - September 2010