Wine & Spirits - Fall 2018 - 57
Ramisco vines in the
coastal sands of Colares
and, for the value, you can't do any better. My clientele is not, 'Show me the best,' but 'What drinks the
best?' I might tell them I have something that's really
good and the price is amazing. They end up saying,
'Okay.'" He also uses it for special events, like a Portuguese and Spanish wine dinner or a menu with truffles. "I served the Caves São João with celery root
agnolotti with white truffles," Ahn recalls.
Months later I was surprised at Hwa Yuan, in NYC,
when Chris Struck of Union Square Café brought a
bottle to dinner. He said he picked it up at a shop in
San Francisco. Of the wines opened that evening with
Heather Meyer (an importer), Jennifer Chin (a marketing consultant), Mariko Kobayashi (a retailer),
Greene and myself-the Poço do Lobo outperformed the rest with the Sichuan cuisine.
The wine cropped up again on Bravo TV's latest
season of Southern Charm. Cast member Thomas
Ravenel and his girlfriend enjoyed a bottle of the
arinto at Pawpaw in Charleston, South Carolina.
On the list, the description read: "chardonnay-like,
deeply caramelized apricot, bright lemon zest, dried
orange blossom"; Ravenel's date called the wine
"interesting." This was huge-as someone who considered the show a guilty pleasure, I now was able
to justify my obsession due to their fabulous taste
in wine.
My "just Colares" approach to Portugal was tested
again in December during a "pathways" tasting, a
concept we'd developed for last year's Fall issue. I
was presented with a pair of Portuguese wines and
asked which I preferred. From that first pair sprouts
another-if you liked this wine, try these next two.
The pathway ultimately led me to a third pair, Adega
de Colares 1997 Colares MJC Ramisco alongside Herdade do Rocim 2015 Alentejo Clay Aged Red.
It seemed like an unfair matchup to me. The Adega
de Colares was elegant, fine grained and constantly
evolving with flavors of fennel-seed turning nori
and cranberry leaning into licorice. But then came
"With 23 years
of age, the arinto
was complex and
beautiful and a
complete surprise."
WINE & SPIRITS
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Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Wine & Spirits - Fall 2018
Contents
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2018 - Cover1
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2018 - Cover2
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2018 - 1
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2018 - 2
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2018 - 3
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2018 - Contents
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2018 - 5
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2018 - 6
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2018 - 7
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2018 - 8
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2018 - 9
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2018 - 10
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2018 - 11
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2018 - 12
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2018 - 13
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2018 - 14
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2018 - 15
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2018 - 16
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2018 - 17
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2018 - 18
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2018 - 19
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2018 - 20
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2018 - 21
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2018 - 22
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2018 - 23
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2018 - 24
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2018 - 25
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2018 - 26
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2018 - 27
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2018 - 28
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2018 - 29
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2018 - 30
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2018 - 31
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2018 - 32
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2018 - 33
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2018 - 34
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2018 - 35
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2018 - 36
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2018 - 37
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2018 - 38
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2018 - 39
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2018 - 40
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2018 - 41
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2018 - 42
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2018 - 43
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Wine & Spirits - Fall 2018 - 45
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2018 - 46
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2018 - 47
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2018 - 48
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2018 - 49
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2018 - 50
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2018 - 51
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2018 - 52
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2018 - 53
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2018 - 54
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2018 - 55
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2018 - 56
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2018 - 57
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2018 - 58
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2018 - 59
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2018 - 60
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2018 - 61
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2018 - 62
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2018 - 63
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2018 - 64
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2018 - 65
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2018 - 66
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2018 - 67
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2018 - 68
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2018 - 69
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2018 - 70
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2018 - 71
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2018 - 72
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2018 - Cover3
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2018 - Cover4
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