Wine & Spirits - February 2018 - 87
IMPORTED NEW RELEASES
while the rest are air-dried for two months
before fermentation to concentrate the flavors. The wine is later racked onto the Amarone lees to begin a second fermentation in
the ripasso style, and aged in large Slavonian
casks for seven years. The wine maintains a
youthful freshness and vigor amid its layered complexity, executing a tricky balance
between density and weightlessness. The
long, expansive finish suggests this wine will
be even more delicious in a decade. § Kermit
Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA
226705
91 | Zyme
$99
2012 Veneto Kairos ^ This wine's multicolored mosaic label is a metaphor for the 15
grape varieties that comprise the blend.
Celestino Gaspari harvests four white and 11
red varieties and dries the clusters for varying
lengths of time, then ferments the fruit in a
mix of stainless-steel and concrete vats for 25
days with ambient yeasts. Then it goes into
French oak barrels, where it rests for three
years. The result in 2012 was a deeply concentrated wine, its flavors of black plum and
fig layered with notes of tobacco, dark chocolate and salted caramel. The density of those
flavors, along with the wine's vibrant acidity and hefty alcohol (15 percent), creates an
intensely warm and spicy combination that
calls for pairing with braised meats or robust
stews. § Banville Wine Merchants, NY
226364
88 | Zenato
$25
2012 Veneto Cormì Corvina-Merlot (Best
Buy) ^ Scents of violets and fresh hay give way
to flavors of plum and blackberry laced with
licorice in this blend of equal parts corvina
and merlot. Pliant tannins lend shape to the
flavors, but the wine's structure derives from
fresh acidity that punches up notes of coriander and tobacco leaf. § Leonardo LoCascio
Selections/The Winebow Group, NY
blend of refosco and raboso. Pour it with a
pizza. § Kobrand, Purchase, NY
P O RT U G A L : P O RT O
VERONESE
226512
226218
90 | Masi
2013 Veronese Brolo Campofiorin Oro
(Best Buy) ^ For Campofiorin Oro, Masi adds
the juice from semi-dried corvina grapes to
already-fermenting grape must, kicking off a
second fermentation. The result is a deeply
concentrated wine filled with black cherry
and plum flavors. Two years of aging in oak
barrels rounded out the tannins and added
subtle spice notes that intensify the rich flavors without verging into sweetness. It feels
tightly knit, with notes of fresh tobacco
and dried herbs that linger on the finish. §
Kobrand, Purchase, NY
226566
88 | Giuseppe Lonardi
225887
90 | Tommasi
$25
84 | Masi
$11
2015 Venezie Arele (Best Buy) ^ Lively acidity
lends succulence to this wine even as sinewy
tannins cinch its red-berry and blood-orange
flavors. About one-third of the grapes (primarily corvina, with oseleta, rondinella and
merlot) are air-dried for three weeks to concentrate the flavors, yet the wine feels juicy
and vibrant, with notes of subtle spice and
cool green herbs. § Vintus, Pleasantville, NY
226066
$20
2015 Veronese Bepi (Best Buy) ^ Bepi is a new
wine for Giuseppe Lonardi, conceived as a
"baby brother" to his Privilegia, which he
makes from partially dried grapes. For Bepi,
Lonardi ferments fresh corvina and rondinella grapes and ages the wine in barriques
for 14 months, where it picks up a cedary
spice that enlivens the flavors of red cherry
and pomegranate. Balanced between ripeness and freshness, with a dry, firm finish, it
would match well with duck risotto. § August
Wine Group, Seattle, WA
226387
88 | Monte Zovo
$24
2013 Veronese Ca' Linverno Rosso (Best
Buy) ^ This corvina blend feels robust and
fiery, its flavors of fig and plum jam concentrated by the addition of late-harvested
grapes left to dry for one month. Rich, bold
and spicy, it's a match for braised beef or
lamb shanks. § Total Beverage Solutions, Mount
Pleasant, SC
226393
87 | Sartori di Verona
VENEZIE
$30
$23
2012 Veronese Regolo Rosso (Best Buy) ^
Notes of menthol and bay leaf cool this
ripasso-style corvina; the wine's sweet spice
notes and robust woodland-berry flavors
would play well with pumpkin-and-sage ravioli. § Banfi Vintners, Old Brookville, NY
L A T E - B O T T L E d V I N TA G E
90 | Ferreira
$25
88 | Offley
$20
2012 Porto Late Bottled Vintage (Best
Buy) ^ Bright and herbal, this starts out with
friskiness in its tart fruit, then tames it with
some chocolate richness. The tannins are
black and smoky, providing enough structure
to stand up to Stilton. § Evaton, Stamford, CT
226510
2012 Porto Late Bottled Vintage (Best
Buy) ^ A fresh and friendly red- and purplefruited Porto, this wine's figgy Christmaspudding flavors are generous and clean. It's
simple and easy to enjoy with a cheese plate. §
Evaton, Stamford, CT
V I N TA G E
227109
92 | Quinta do Crasto
$70
90 | Broadbent
$65
90 | Quinta de la Rosa
$70
2015 Porto Vintage ^ Selected from 60-yearold vines at this quinta on the right bank of
the Douro, downriver from Pinhão, Crasto's
2015 has stature and grace, seeming to gain
its power directly out of the schist ground. It
opens to scents of violets and roses, to racy
purple and blueberry fruit. The tannins add
to the ample, polished feel of the wine, needing a decade or more to grow toward maturity. § Broadbent Selections, San Francisco, CA
227110
2015 Porto Vintage ^ A Porto with a red glow,
this is packed with youthful fruit that seems
to gain its stamina from a core of vermillion
red. The tannins have the feel of fine-grained
leather, adding to the generous texture of the
wine. § Broadbent Selections, San Francisco, CA
227444
2015 Porto Vintage ^ Chocolate-rich up front,
this wine tames its schist-driven tannins
with black fruit, so ripe it tastes as if it were
dusted in sugar. There's tension underneath,
enough to sustain the wine as it ages, but the
structure of the wine is friendly enough to
drink this young, with a savory plum tart. §
Winesellers, Niles, IL n
2016 Venezie Modello Rosso (Best Buy) ^
Tart and snappy cherry flavors mingle with
notes of toasted nuts in this fresh and lively
WINE & SPIRITS
FEBRUARY 2018
87
Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Wine & Spirits - February 2018
Contents
Wine & Spirits - February 2018 - Cover1
Wine & Spirits - February 2018 - Cover2
Wine & Spirits - February 2018 - 1
Wine & Spirits - February 2018 - 2
Wine & Spirits - February 2018 - 3
Wine & Spirits - February 2018 - 4
Wine & Spirits - February 2018 - Contents
Wine & Spirits - February 2018 - 6
Wine & Spirits - February 2018 - 7
Wine & Spirits - February 2018 - 8
Wine & Spirits - February 2018 - 9
Wine & Spirits - February 2018 - 10
Wine & Spirits - February 2018 - 11
Wine & Spirits - February 2018 - 12
Wine & Spirits - February 2018 - 13
Wine & Spirits - February 2018 - 14
Wine & Spirits - February 2018 - 15
Wine & Spirits - February 2018 - 16
Wine & Spirits - February 2018 - 17
Wine & Spirits - February 2018 - 18
Wine & Spirits - February 2018 - 19
Wine & Spirits - February 2018 - 20
Wine & Spirits - February 2018 - 21
Wine & Spirits - February 2018 - 22
Wine & Spirits - February 2018 - 23
Wine & Spirits - February 2018 - 24
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