Wine & Spirits - April 2018 - 40

Ortzi

Raoul's

Jose Garces's heritage may be Ecuadorian; his personal roots may be in Chicago and, later, Philly; but his take on
Basque tapas is one of the most creative
and exciting new Spanish openings in
NYC. What may sound like standards,
whether setas a la planxa or chorizo
Pamplona, come with a curious twist,
like the gambas al ajillo with chile. Grab
some Basque sidra or Txakolina from the
parron and order a range of preserved
fish from Spain-Bonito del Norte, cockles (berberechos) or mussels... -J.G.
120 W. 41st St.; 212-730-8900,
ortzirestaurant.com

Since 1975, Raoul's has been known for a
few things: celebrity sightings; a tarot reader
on the second floor; and a burger, sauced
with foie gras, the orders limited to a dozen
a day. It's available only at the bar, so arrive
early and belly up. Then ask for the wine list.
Andy Newlin, who spent nearly a decade at
Per Se honing his wine skills, stocks it with
back vintages from names big and small,
mostly from France, with some top-drawer
domestic selections. -S.S.L.
180 Prince St.; 212-966-3518, raouls.com

Nur

Ops

NYC is having a love affair with Middle Eastern food, whether it's the hummus at
Dizengoff and halva at Seed + Mill, the pita at Miznon or falafel at Taïm. Only at Nur,
however, does the food get the wine list it deserves. The whites are fragrant and
textured, like Domaine Roche aux Moines Savennières and Wind Gap's Fannuchi
Wood Trousseau Gris-perfect for sipping while swiping the freshly baked breads
through their assorted spice dips; the reds are spicy, lean and lively, like Julien
Sunier Wild Soul Gamay and Castella Verduno Pelaverga, agile matches with the
complex seasonings. This is the first US venture for Tel Aviv chef Meir Adoni, who's
teamed up with Gadi Peleg of Breads Bakery. -T.Q.T.
34 E. 20th St.; 212-505-3420, nurnyc.com

Racines NY

39
40

WINE & SPIRITS

Late night, Racines can be sommelier central, as the industry gathers to plunder owner
Arnaud Tronche's wine list. With an assist
from partner David Lillie, of Chambers Street
Wines down the next block, he's stocked a
geek's dream cellar, full of small-production
Champagne, Jura whites and Burgundy back
vintages, plus a savvy selection of bottles from
France's south. Tronche's home country may
get the most extensive coverage, but the list
welcomes low-intervention wines from around
the world, at terrific prices. -T.Q.T.
94 Chambers St.; 212-227-3400,
racinesny.com
APRIL 2018

There's no wine list at Ops; instead,
scan the bottles on the shelves, or ask
the waitstaff for guidance. They'll pour
any wine by the glass for $12, regardless of bottle price. When it comes to
bottles, Mike Fadem (formally of Estela
and Roman's) uses a sliding scale for
markups, so that the most expensive
wines receive the smallest margin.
Prices top out at $60, which means
the savvy drinker can seek out a steal,
including cult favorites like Radikon
or Marie-Courtin Champagne. To eat,
get the square pie, its sourdough crust
topped with tomatoes, olives and
house-made mozzarella. -A.B.
346 Himrod St., Brooklyn;
718-386-4009, opsbk.com

River Café

photos: Ortzi by Daniel Kreiger; Racines NY by Evan Sung; River Café by Dany Creative Design

The view from the footings of the Brooklyn Bridge is worth the price of admission, as is the wine list, shepherded by Joseph DeLissio since 1977, the year
Buzzy O'Keeffe opened the River Café. Chef Brad Steelman is now in his eighteenth year at the helm in the kitchen. If you want Coche-Dury Meursault or
Mount Eden chardonnay for your Maryland and Maine crab cake with uni
vinaigrette, invest in a 2005. There are great buys and dizzying verticals-of
Heitz Cabernet dating back to 1968, Castillo Ygay to 1970, La Tâche to 2002,
Rousseau Chambertin to 1996 and 15 vintages of Pétrus for your Mushrooms
Wellington. There's also a large selection of half bottles and magnums. And
one of the best Madeira collections in the US. -J.G.
1 Water St., Brooklyn; 718-522-5200, rivercafe.com

http://www.raouls.com http://www.ortzirestaurant.com http://www.opsbk.com http://www.nurnyc.com http://www.rivercafe.com http://www.racinesny.com

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Wine & Spirits - April 2018