Doll News Fall 2019 - 91

bodices were generally high-necked as it was considered unseemly to
expose any skin before late afternoon. Additionally, pale skin on the
neck and shoulders was the fashion, so parasols and wide brimmed hats
were all the rage whenever one ventured out of doors. Sleeves were full,
widest at the elbow gathered at the shoulder and narrowing at the wrist.
Sometimes sleeves were layered. Interestingly, hems were not turned up,
as we do today, but were faced with a strip of cloth that could be replaced
when worn out. Often silk and velvet would be worn in winter, but fine
lawn, gauze and linen were the standard for the warmer months. Light
colors and pastels or white were highly favored by women of status, with
black reserved for mourning.
Hair was generally worn parted in the middle and drawn back with
soft loops at the side, sometimes with ringlets for dress. Jewelry consisted
of small rosy gold delicate dangle earrings, brooches and matching cuffstyle bracelets, one on each wrist. Fans were a popular accessory, as were
nosegays and small purses. Lace was not widely used except for collar
and cuff sets. Parasols were a must. Underclothing consisted
of the standard chemise, drawers, and multiple petticoats
and a whalebone corset. These undergarments, bodices and
nightclothes were all made of very lightweight fine cotton.
Hats were common and worn for propriety. They also
protected the delicate skin of the face and neck from the
elements. Wide-brimmed hats, made of straw, were for summer
months and heavier bonnets, decorated with faux flowers or
feathers and a small curtain of lace at the back, were for winter
months. Spoon bonnets and simple caps, worn at home, were
also popular.

Mademoiselle Jumeau contemplates a new cotton
dress ensemble, as she sits among her supplies.
The beautifully reproduced French fashion doll is
authentically styled on an articulated Gildebrief
body. Doll & photograph by Mary Ann Shandor-
frenchdollfashions.com

The beautiful Enfantine dolls of Adelaide Huret reached the
height of their popularity during this period. Many a wealthy Southern child
enjoyed a beautiful French doll adorned with the latest fashions. While most
of the party dresses and formal attire of these dolls mimicked the silk fashions
of their human counterparts, many lovely cotton items also graced their
trunks. Dozens of sheer cotton undergarments, chemisettes, nightgowns and
caps as well as other lingerie items were to be found among the wardrobes of
these dolls. Finely crafted dresses in the softest weaves of cotton were popular,
embellished with intricate braid, fringe and soutache designs.
For today's costumer, whether for an antique or reproduction doll,
vintage or new cotton fabric and trims are a wonderful choice. Easy to
work with, easily ironed and laundered and very forgiving when handled,
cotton is a perfect authentic choice for your costumes. Beautiful fabrics
can be found in both brick and mortar shops and online, along with
costume ideas and construction techniques, available in groups such as
FrenchFashionDollSewingClub@groups.io and, on Facebook at The Huret Doll.
So, share your creativity and skill and fill that little ladies' trunk to
overflowing!
The aristocratic ladies of the "Old South" were the absolute queens of an
elegant lifestyle in a bygone society - a sophisticated world of gentlemen
and ladies-a time when cotton was king. An era that truly is...
"Gone with the Wind."

Suzanne McBrayer's
beautiful and
meticulously
detailed painted
reproduction Huret
wears a delicate
cotton dress
and a "Scarlett
O'Hara" picture
hat in the classic
Southern style.
Doll & costume by
Suzanne McBrayer;
bisquebeauties.com

Fabulous cotton gauze and insertion
lace accent this party dress. Designed
and sewn by Mary Ann Shandor
DOLL NEWS * UFDC.ORG

http://frenchdollfashions.com http://bisquebeauties.com http://UFDC.org

Doll News Fall 2019

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Doll News Fall 2019